KAZAKHSTAN / TIEN SHAN – top of the sky

Central Tien Shan, Kazakhstan. As the crow flies 200 km east of China, and about 30 miles south of Kyrgyzstan, which is “somewhere in the middle of nowhere.” What can we do with snowboarding boards? Dreams, which nourish the imagination or moving away more and more from reality, or explode with a big bang and become a source of unforgettable experiences. Fortunately, in our case, the latter took up the option. We were able to realize a dream snowboard.

Alma-Ata, where we landed, is the largest city in terms of area of the ninth country in the world and one of the most mineral-rich region in the good of the planet. Arriving in Kazakhstan only had a phone number to an unknown taxi driver. After a few hours of sitting in the “yellow CAB” traversing the suburbs of the old city. Courtesy of Goran, our taxi driver, who felt responsible for locating us in an affordable and safe place, we rented an apartment in a block that looks very neat neighborhood. However, two rooms, a kitchen and a bathroom with hot water offset the view from the window.

The purpose of our trip was, of course, snowboarding. So without wasting time, the next day we found ourselves in the Mountains of Heaven (china: Tien Shan).The plan consisted mainly backcountry expeditions and heliboarding, however, trying to get used to some of the new environment we decided to take advantage of the nearly empty lifts. Powder snow, we were the first people on the immaculate slopes, more than 3,000 meters above sea level, the sun … It’s allowed to forget “our neighborhood” and the first few days we stay completely satisfied.

But that was just the beginning. The next day we already have an appointment with the Kazakh guide Alec Korolev. And that could mean only one thing – freeriding! Alek first day he wanted to test our skills and fitness to be able to plan for the next days ride. We set up several signs in a fairly narrow couloirs, then moved between small rocks on steep slopes. Everyone wanted to come off best – at the end of this would depend on where we will have to “surf” the next day.

We received a message from Poland, the Ecoturism (office of tourism development in Kazakhstan) and Alpina 21, dealing with the organization of the backcountry and heliboarding, answered our e-mails. The result was a meeting with representatives of these companies. Our plan, which consisted of taking pictures and shooting video amateur documenting the expedition, aroused so much interest, that these companies are committed not only to the selfless help, but also to ensure the “attractions” for the duration of our stay.

On the “interest” does not have to wait to long. The next evening, after another day of snowboarding, we sat on the train aimed in the direction of Ugam, located about 1,000 km west of Alma-Ata. After 15-hour “ride” at the station in Chimkent waiting for us Ecoturism man, Abdeshev Alikhan, a former army general of the Soviet Union, pilot jet, our guide and host. In short, a colorful character.

Stay in a completely different part of Kazakhstan, which turned out to be semi-deserts and steppes and mountains Ugam unusual hospitality of the local people had a great impression on us. Also provide incredible excitement: all day riding in Kazakh saddle, combined with an attempt to remain on the backs of intact stallions, night feasts among the indigenous Kazakh riders over a glass of kumys (fermented mare’s milk, beverages alcohol) or cheering “matches” national game, in which the aim is to deportation dead goat from concentrated riders and clouds of dust, “the mill”.

After returning in fresh snow covered peaks of Tien Shan was waiting for us ready and very simple plan: backcountry! Tents and equipment are ready, it was almost 30 cm of fresh snow, everything looked perfect. After spending the night in the exclusive resort “Vorota Tuyuk-Su”, we went to a meeting with Alec true “Peaks of Heaven.” The plan was “the establishment of evidence” on the slopes of several mountains, two days walk away from the top of the lift stations in Chimbulak. There, we had to establish a base at an altitude of over 3600 meters above sea level and one of the scheduled meetings had to take place from a height 4150 m above sea level.

As often happens in the mountains, change of plans comes unexpectedly. It was no different this time. During a snowshoe ascent on a steep slope, when Alek and a part of the team ahead of some of us, suddenly above us snow surface burst length of approximately 20 m and fell slightly below our feet, spending a difficult explainable noise. When we paused breath, realizing that we are on a potential avalanche. Thud accompanying collapse of snow paralyzed not only the body – resulting emotional void can easily be described as pure fear.

I knew that something had to be done, on the other hand we did’t know whether to go forward, stop, or retreat. Wasting no time, the first part of the team quickly went back to the edge of the crack. Alek cover and individually examined began to retreat. Without a word, without even breathing, we placed foot as if to believe that everything will be fine, on the other hand listened to what happens when the rocket touches the snow. Those few seconds took forever. We passed the edge of the plateau, and only one of us started terrible curse. Around all looked fabulous, though perfectly, and we just came to the self. Then we heard the cry of a young Russian woman from another group snowboarders, which we passed an hour earlier. It was found that near the avalanche came down, maybe some 600 m away from our crack. It took one. I do not have much equipment, only two blades Avalanche. We set up the board and arrived at the scene of an accident. It was necessary to use a probe. Guest did not have a signaller (avalanche detector – perm. Ed.). After locating the body started nervously digging. After a while we saw the face buried Russian. He was nearly 2 meters under the snow, but he survived! Slowly he began to recover. Avalanche was almost 200 meters wide and about 600 meters long, and the snow was extremely heavy. A true miracle.

After some time, when emotions somewhat subsided, we decided to spend the night in spite of all the mountains. A few hours wandering crowned a hot meal and the establishment of the camp at an altitude of 3600 m, where the late afternoon we went to Chimbulak Peak (3740 m).

Around 7 am the dream freed us wind blowing at a speed of a hurricane, which made it difficult to gather our gear together and make a tousled and broken tents. At times we were going down on all fours, driving down was impossible. In the evening, after a delicious dinner, sipping drinks Kazakh firm could no longer alive and well “enjoy” the fumes of 120 progressive Russian Banji.

The next few days were filled with strong snowfall, which obviously contributed to the strong deterioration of the already dangerous conditions in the mountains. Avalanche came down like a running hours, inexorably approaching the the day of our departure – one after the other. It occurred to us to forget about our longed and planned in detail heliboarding, but none of us wanted to let go of the opportunity to riding a snowboard. We asked Alek for help. He agreed without hesitation. We chose the lower parts of the mountains and in the company of our Kazakh guide, despite the heavy snow, every day ridges across an amazing, still mysterious and amazing Tien Shan slope. After several hours of hiking time would come when the Mountains of Heaven uncovered before us the true face of explaining the name – a few moments of incomparable with anything else snow surfing.

Photo gallery: https://www.snowprogres.com/en/category/media/season-2012/kazakhstan/